Quick-Tip: Point Turner

This, my friends, is a point turner. It looks like this particular one is set as a button gauge as well. However, my main focus is on what the point turner does. It is so helpful when you are sewing a project that needs to be turned inside out and of course has corners.
  This will make your life much easier! For instance, I used it on the pockets of my purse that I just made and put on here.
  Anyway, it's pretty simple to use: push the pointy side into the corners and watch them come inside out with ease!

Enjoy!

Cont'd Tutorial: Adding a Tab to Your Purse

1. Make a U shaped pattern - 3 inches wide. Cut two pieces. Place the metal piece down on one cut and mark where those two rectangular holes are. 

2. Fold your fabric and cut on the two marks you just made. Now you can slide your metal piece through. 

3. This isn't a requirement but I do it to reinforce the magnet on the tab: Do the same steps you just did but now with the cardboard and slide that into place. You'll see here also I put interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric. 

4. Now you can put on the metal back piece. 

5. Bend out the magnet prongs to secure it into place. 

6. Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together and sew around the U shape but leave the top open. Remember to backstitch.

7. Turn the tab inside out.

 8. Sew a small line around the tab if you like. 

9. When putting the tab in, place it between the two layers of the purse. Have it stick out a good 1/4" so it is securely in place when sewn. For the purse, I put the inner lining inside the outer and right sides together with the magnet facing down on the tab. 

10. On the other side of the purse's outer lining, put the other side of the magnet in about an inch and a half down from the purse's top. 

(Outer lining with magnet finished):

Here's a closer view of the purse! The tab is (obviously) there on the top but it does blend in a little with this fabric design!

Sling Purse Tutorial

This is a "make-your-own" sling purse pattern! It's not hard to make though, so don't worry. I'll guide you through each step. This is the only picture I got of the finished purse - I was paid to make it and delivered it without taking more photos! Sorry for that. 

Supplies:

2 yards fabric (makes outer and inner lining of purse, plus a cell pocket on the strap if desired)

1 yard interfacing 

1/2 yard fabric for inside pockets if desired

To make your pattern: the sling or strap part of the purse is 3 1/2" x however long you want the strap to be. To find this out, have someone help you measure from your hip to around your shoulder and at the same hip again. Cut that measurement in half and that's how long you'll make your strap when cutting. 

For the body of the purse, I did 17"x16" but again you can decide how big or small you want this to be. From the strap to the edge of the purse my measurement is 4.5". Just make sure the strap is in the middle and build your measurements around that. I made my pattern out of rolled up paper and yes you need to make sure the strap is connected to the purse when cutting your fabric! Okay, not to bad right?

 1. Fold your fabric length wise and place the pattern down farthest from the fold. 

(A second example of laying out your pattern)

2. Right here on your pattern make a diagonal line connecting the strap to the purse if you'd like the curved look in your purse. (That's what I did) The next picture shows my diagonal lines better. Now cut out your pattern and you'll end up with two of the same cut-outs. Do this again to make your cuts for your lining. (I flipped the pattern around and cut it that way)

3. Let's start on the pockets! Cut on the fold a 12 1/2" x 11"  pocket & a 6 1/2" x 12 1/2" pocket. For each pocket, place the right sides together and sew leaving about 3" open to pull it inside out. Then iron the pockets down and fold in the open seam so it is hidden. 

4. On the fold of the pocket, sew across the top only. This is the top of the pocket and WON'T be sewn down. Now take a break from the pockets.

5. Cut out your interfacing and iron it onto the wrong side of the inner lining pieces. You don't have to cut the strap and purse in the same cut on this one. 

6. Sew the right and left sides of the outer fabric top to bottom. Right sides together.

7. Now put the side seams in the middle like this and sew the bottom of the purse. 

Here is the bottom sewn:

8. Take the corners of what you have just sewn and put the bottom seam in the middle to make a triangle. Now sew a straight line down about 1 1/2" in on each side. Trim the seam. 

 9. Repeat steps 6-8 to make your inner lining. However, when you sew the bottom on step 7, leave a 3" opening which you'll need later.

10. Now, pin your pockets where you want them onto the lining of the purse. You'll pin them so the middle is over the seam and the straps are on the sides (to give you a point of reference).  Put the side where you have already sewn a line across at the top. Sew in your pocket...only on 3 sides though! :) If you want to make pockets within your pocket - sew from the top to the bottom of the pocket and remember to backstitch.

 11. If you'd like a cell phone pocket, I cut on the fold a 3 1/2" x 6 1/2" pocket, put right sides together, sewed together the 3 1/2" side that isn't the fold, sewed a line across the fold, and pinned it on the strap of the outer fabric about 6" up from the curve from the purse. (The 6 1/2" sides are NOT sewn at this point) Go ahead and sew on to the strap the bottom of the pocket. 

12. I put a magnetic tab on this purse and I'll post "how to" directions tomorrow on this. Otherwise my tutorial might scare people away! :) The tab isn't hard, but I don't want too many steps at once! 

13. Place the inner purse inside the outer purse, right sides together. Pin the seams to match up. This is where you will pin in your tab, with the magnet facing down, in between the two seams. 

14. You'll place the other magnet on the outer fabric about an inch and a half from the top of the purse. Now you can pin the two seams on that side of the purse together. 

 15. Now sew all around the edges up to and around the top of the straps. Remember the opening you left in the lining? This is where you'll pull the purse inside-out. 

 16. Once your purse is turned inside-out, sew shut your opening in the lining. I did this by folding the raw edges in and sewing across. 

17. To put the straps together, I overlapped them about a half inch and sewed a straight line one way, and then another right back. Then I did the same thing again on the other side to make sure the straps were securely down. 

(sewing the straps together):

18. Last step: sew around the whole top of the purse and the straps to make a nice polished purse! 

Again, the finished product!

Water's Edge Quilt

This is Water's Edge, designed by Marion Patterson in the quilting book, Simple Stitches Quilting. I did add the borders around it though. This quilt is black, white, grey, and purple. I totally changed the color scheme so that would be why this quilt doesn't really look like the "Water's Edge"! 

The front:

The back:

I only have one complaint for this pattern: if you don't use a layer cake  (40 10" squares of fabric pre-cut) it is best to lay out the pattern as you cut your fabric and the pieces that lay horizontally you'll want to cut a 1/4" shorter. 

You can purchase this quilting book which has "18 projects for the new quilter"! I just received it as a gift and have found many patterns I am anxious to make. 

Below is a picture of the book as well as a link to it on Amazon:

A Quilt from The Purl Bee

Here is my version of The Wedding Quilt, by Purl Bee:

I was asked to make a quilt - one that would have colors of a rainbow and colors of a sunset. So here's my version of a sunset on a quilt! 

Pros of This Pattern:

This is a queen size (I added two rows to each side) and it came together rather fast! The quilt is put together by sewing strips end on end and then sewing those together.

There are a lot of different ways to choose fabric - the original on The Purl Bee website has white as a background color whereas I have no background color. Plus you can change the pattern of how fabrics are laid out - for instance, I have dark in the middle going out towards light colors. Someone else might do dark on the left going over to lighter colors on the right of the quilt.

It's free! Visit the link above my pictures!

Cons of This Pattern:

Deciding where to put what color, how much of each fabric I needed, and laying out the quilt took me almost a whole morning! And I'm pretty decisive!

When cutting the fabric, I would have cut the top and bottom rows (going across the quilt) to size rather than leaving them 12" and not cutting them until AFTER you've sewn each strip (going down the quilt).

When on The Purl Bee's pattern it said to take off so many inches per each strip on the top and bottom rows, I had to scratch out those numbers and focus on how much fabric I needed to leave there instead! One suggestion I received to do was leave those strips 12" and just mark where you would be cutting so you can make sure it is even before you do any permanent cutting!